Name: Sash Restaurant and Wine Bar
Contact: 1133 Yonge St., 416-616-4774, sash.ca, @sashrestaurantto
Neighbourhood: Summerhill
Chef-owner: Sash Simpson (North 44)
Accessibility: Ten steps at the entrance, but there’s also elevator that leads to the dining area.
The food
Modern American dishes with international twists, much like the ones Simpson was making at North 44. There are a few staples on the seasonally changing menu, including a selection of dry-aged steaks, and an oyster and caviar menu. There are separate lunch and dinner menus, as well as a list of bar bites like oysters Rockefeller and the Sash Burger topped with white truffle aïoli, shaved torchon and French brie. Sunday brunch features pastry baskets and cheese blintzes (a nod to the branches of Dunn’s Famous Delicatessen that Simpson’s family once owned) and two kinds of scrambled eggs: a fancy-schmancy version topped with osetra caviar and shaved black truffles, and an Indian take served with a dosa. “It’s fine dining but it’s also fun,” Simpson says. “And it’s not all quiet. Thursday to Saturday, a DJ starts at 9:45 p.m.”
On the day of our visit, the daily special appetizer was bluefin tuna belly served sashimi-style and garnished with Russian osetra caviar, crème fraîche and sesame yuzu. MP.
The charcuterie platter comes with a selection that could include duck prosciutto, prosciutto, salami, house-made duck rillettes, truffle foie gras terrine, seasonal compote, house mustard and pickles, olives and crostini. $33.
The Chilean sea bass with Madras curry is served with fried okra and vegetable pakoras. $48.
On the day of our visit, the daily main special was this beef filet tenderloin in a beef jus, topped with foie gras-stuffed morel mushrooms and served with fiddleheads and black truffles. MP.
Desserts are kept light, like this chocolate soufflé sided with milk chocolate and toffee sauces. $15.
Here it is again
Besides a selection of sorbets and Indian vanilla ice cream, there’s the Lemon Pie/Meringue plate. It’s accompanied by raspberry sorbet, fresh berries and basil foam. $15.
Chef Simpson.
The drinks
A handful of beers, a growing list of by-the-glass and bottled international wines, and signature cocktails made using premium spirits. The Sash & Soda, inspired by Simpson’s love for cold vodka, is served over a giant, gold-leaf-covered ice cube.
The Blue Country is made with Bulleit bourbon, blueberries and lime juice. $18.
Steel Magnolias is made with Levenswater gin, Pernod, a sauvignon blanc reduction, orange blossom water, lime juice and egg white. $20.
The space
Natural light spills in from the room’s large south-facing windows onto the polished black-and-gold 90-seat dining room. The bar has room for another 10 guests.
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